Welcome to my blog on my year (July 2010 - June 2011) in the Marshall Islands! The Republic of the Marshall Islands is a Micronesian nation composed on 29 coral atolls and 5 islands in the middle of the Pacific Ocean just west of the International Date Line and just north of the Equator. I am here on the Dartmouth Volunteer Teaching Program which you can find out more about at this link: www.dartmouthrmi.com. I am staying in the capital, Majuro, and am teaching two sections of 7th grade English Grammar/Writing and English Reading at Majuro Middle School (MMS). I am living in dorms on the Marshall Islands High School (MIHS) campus, where MMS is located. If you have any other questions please feel free to email me at l.andrew.rayner@gmail.com, and thanks for visiting my blog. I update on Sundays as regularly as electricity/internet availability permits.
Showing posts with label fishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fishing. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Stormy Weather



I am sorry for the delay of this post. The (free) internet on campus has been down since this past Thursday when the Majuro Atoll had a planned power outage (for more details, continue reading below). This past week was pretty tumultuous, but after writing this and having started a new week, I feel much better about those things that went wrong. This past week started off like most others. Like I have said in past blog entries, I think that I am getting into the swing of things here and finding a rhythm to the way of life. School went as it has been going. I started this week telling my students that they had a second chance on everything. I had previously caught some of them cheating (my response was to dramatically rip their papers up in front of the class and give a lesson on the definition of the word "unacceptable"), some of them had skipped class, many of them had come in late, and even more of them had chosen not to turn in homework or to study for my quizzes. I was disappointed but I acquiesced to the idea that maybe these slip-ups had been the result of my failure to clearly outline my expectations. I did just that at the beginning of the week and hoped that many of my students would take advantage of my generosity. I also gave them the chance to come into my classroom during lunch or after school and get extra points on their quizzes from the previous week which most of them did very poorly on. I did not expect to see many or any of the students for the retake but after school at least 20 showed up. I thought that maybe my talking-to had worked and that things would go more smoothly in the classroom. Little did I know what was coming the week ahead of me.

One highlight of this week was talking to the deaf student at MMS in sign language. Mandy, the World Teach volunteer that I spoke about last week who specialized in teaching special education classes in college, told me a week or so ago that if I wanted to make the deaf student happy, I should sign to him "What is your first name?" She thought that even some recognition from one of the new ribelle teachers would make him happy. I learned the ASL alphabet in elementary school (to give you some kind of indication of how nerdy we were back then, we used to sign notes to each other across the class instead of passing them; it was a short lived fad) and so I felt relatively prepared to read his response since it would be spelled out. I was in the office during one of my prep periods and the student walked in. I was excited to use the sign I had learned so I tried it and he beamed at me and commenced to spell his name. Unfortunately, my alphabet was a little rusty and so I mixed up "m" and "n" and was thoroughly confused about what his name was, especially since I have no expertise in Marshallese names. There is a white board in the office, so I went up it and spelled out what I thought was "Amdy." He shook his head no and spelled out "Andy." I felt so dumb. However, I signed my name and spelled it on the board too and then drew and arrow from his name to him and my name to me. He smiled again. I then erased the "rew" from my name, replaced it with a "y" to indicate that his name, Andy, was a form of my name. Then I pointed from him to me to try to indicate that we were the same. He clapped and was very happy. It made me feel really good to communicate with someone who I do not think gets to communicate with anyone besides his interpreter at school.

Thursday there was a planned power outage for the whole island. There has only been one of these since I have been here but it was for half of the island. The outages take place so that mechanics can fix the generators that power the entire atoll. Many schools took this as an opportunity to have a half day, since the outage is scheduled from 9-5 and the buildings get hot and the bathrooms don't work. My school did not do this. Unfortunately, Marshall Islands High School (MIHS), who shares a field with us, did decide to have a half day in addition to a celebration/party for their new freshman, new teachers, and transfer students. The music started before lunch and I knew that all was lost as far as trying to keep the focus of my students. Many of the students wandered into the MIHS celebration and did not return at all for classes after lunch, and those who did were over 20 mins late. The MMS teachers were not much help at bringing the kids back to school, especially when they were saying we should have a half day too despite the fact that principal said no.

To make matters worse, a large number of my students did not have their homework again, AND I caught one of them cheating--one of the people who I had given the second chance to for cheating the first time. All of this together made me extremely upset and frustrated. I struggled to understand how I would ever get any progress with my students when they were so easily distracted and unwilling to even try. I ended up being fairly bitter and doing a poor job of hiding my disappointment. In my second section, when I found out one of my "bad" students did not have his homework again and that his response to why he did not have it was a simple shrug I flipped out. I kept removing his feet from the chair in front of him as I tried to get a reason from him as to why he did not have his homework and he kept putting them back up AND not giving me a reason for not having his homework. He was the first student I sent to the office.

I went to the office after school very frustrated (school ended up concluding a period early because of all of the distractions). I attempted to express my frustrations the other teachers and I learned that I was not alone in my treatment from the students. Many of the Marshallese teachers expressed the need for more discipline and punishment. They suggested that I crack down harder on my students. They said that in the end, they will still like you and will respect you more so for doing it. This is my plan for this week.

The Bungalow received its final member on Thursday. Bill, a World Teach volunteer from last year, came to complete our family for the year. An older gentleman, Bill had been traveling around the country before coming to Majuro. He did not have to be at orientation because he did the program last year. He entered with a bang, buying us lunch at Tide Table. The following day, he helped us turn our house into a home, moving around furniture and motivating us to clean to the point were I said, "Wow, this is scary. i am starting to see this as a place I might live for the next year." Everyone agreed. Bill brought a number of supplies to help cover surfaces and complete our kitchen and he says that he has spices (including Lawry's seasoned salt, thank God!) and other nifty things on the way here. He has experience as a chef so I am excited to learn cooking techniques and eat the meals he prepares (not that we haven't been doing a good job, but still)! Bill is also teaching on the MIHS campus kiddy-corner to MMS at a school called the National Vocation and Technical Institute (NVTI). This school is basically for students who do not score high enough to get into MIHS. It helps get an equivalency diploma.

Later Friday night, I was invited to dinner at the home of Yvonne and her husband Craig. Yvonne is an older woman who is here teaching at the College of the Marshall Islands (CMI). More importantly, she is from one of the suburbs of Chicago! I was ecstatic to meet her a few weeks ago because of our connection and she has treated me like her own child since our first meeting. She is the only carnivore in a family of herbivores so she was happy to have me over to have a reason to cook some meat. We sat around her family's apartment and talked about like in the Marshall Islands and teaching with her family and two other CMI teachers who also stated the importance of discipline in the classroom in order to reach the Marshallese students. I found this very encouraging. I was also able to talk Yvonne and Craig's daughter, Amethyst, who is a high school senior and is looking at colleges. I am very much so pushing her to apply to Dartmouth and was giving her application and college advice from my years of experience as an intern in the Admissions Office at Dartmouth.

Later that night, Yvonne and I headed to the Marshall Islands Resort (MIR) for a drink after dinner (Craig and the other guests were not interested in coming). On the porch, we met some friends of Yvonne's and talked for a few hours. One of these friends was a Marshallese man who goes by the name Junior. I told him of my frustrations in the classroom this past week and he told me of the importance of parents and how many parents here are not involved or not aware of their children's academic life. He is very involved in his children's schooling. He says that he takes out a white board every night and has them write out what they need to do and that he does he best to help them learn what they need to learn. He encouraged me to get the parents involved and that he said he would come to my class to offer some Marshallese motivation. I was very encouraged by this. However, when I went inside, I had a conversation of a different and less encouraging sort.

The conversation started like most of my conversations with Marshallese people. I explained to him that I was a volunteer teacher at MMS and that I was here for the year through the DVTP. I expressed to him some of my frustrations from the week and his only response was to tell me that the Marshallese people were stupid. I was taken aback by this response and insisted that I did not agree. I told him that while my students may not be doing all that well in my class, there were a few who were doing outstanding work. Even though there were those that weren't doing as well, I could still tell that they were smart. Their only problem was a lack of effort and motivation. They were too distracted by other things and did not see their education as a priority. The gentleman's response was to ask me if I was being asked questions in Marshallese would I be able to respond. I said, "Of course not," and that that was exactly my point. My students lack of success in my class was not indicative of their intelligence. It only spoke to their inability to read, write, and comprehend English. Still, I argued, I knew that my students could do the work if they tried, they just chose not to try. I asked him what he thought I should do. He said again that the Marshallese were stupid and that I should ask President Obama for more money for the country. This bothered me deeply because I knew that handouts from America, warranted or not, were not the solution to this problem. I said this to him and he responded that I was like all of the other volunteers and ribelles that came to the island. That I thought I was better than the Marshallese and that I knew what was best for them. He said that I was here for a vacation. I tried to disavow these accusations but the man stayed firm. After my experiences in my classroom this week and knowing all of the work I had put into teaching, this comment made me furious. I stormed away from the man and out of the bar. It was my first encounter with someone who did not seem to want volunteers to be here. I left mad because I knew I was not on vacation, that I had worked hard, and that I had even more hard work ahead of me. I think I was even more mad because I kept thinking to myself, "How do I help a people that do not want to be helped?"

I was so distraught from the conversation that I got in touch with Anna, the DVTP field director, who lived close by to MIR. I told her about the interaction that I had just had and asked her my question -- "How do I help a people that do not want to be helped?" She replied that this was a typical response from many Marshallese people and that they had a point. The Marshallese did fine on their own for hundreds of years before intervention from foreign countries. What were were doing here? Why did they need our help? She encouraged me to find answers to these questions myself. As far as motivating youth who did not put the effort forth to reap the benefits of volunteer teachers she said, "You have to inspire. You have to be consistent and show the students that you care. In time, they will come to care too." These words, though simple, resonated strongly with me. I left Anna's house that evening with renewed energy and hope that I could make a difference once again.

In lighter news, this weekend was the All Micronesian Fishing Tournament sponsored by the RMI's own Billfish Fishing Club. Justin, one of the volunteers, was lucky enough to be asked to be on a team for Kwajalein, the atoll where the American military base is located. On Saturday, his team (a man short) was able to bring in a marlin weighing just under 300 pounds. They had also hooked two other marlin's but were not able to reel them in. The one fish was enough to put them in fourth place for the day. The next day he was not so lucky. Due to boat malfunctions and poor fishing location choices, his team was only able to real in a skipjack and a wahoo (two DELICIOUS tuna). His team ended up getting fourth place in the end. The other volunteers and I were very proud of him. He faired extremely well against "all" of Micronesia!

Finally, this Sunday around Majuro (in the Christian churches at least) was known as White Sunday. This basically meant that the church youths wore their finest white regalia and led service. I went to the UCC church on Ejit with Alex (Justin was fishing at the time) and watched at the adorable kids sang (or shouted to be more precise) "We Shall Overcome" and "Praise Ye the Lord" while waving dollar bill flags. Alex was very proud of her students. I was personally moved to hear kids from across the world singing "We Shall Overcome," a song that speaks directly to the Civil Rights Movement in America. After this week, I can only hope that the Marshallese youth do feel as if they can overcome their adversities some day.

As always, I will end with some more observations about the RMI that have surprised me.

16) The word for black person in Marshallese is "rikilmej" ((roll the r) ri - kull - e - mezz). It means "black (as in the color) people." I think it is so much more fun to say and more colorful than the English equivalent, or any other term that black people have been called around the world for that matter (read: les noirs in French, which literally means "the blacks".

17) The ocean and lagoon are beautiful. I always knew there was a world under all the water but it is full of life! I have been snorkeling only a few times but I think it might be my new favorite thing on earth. Imagine being in an aquarium with as many different types of fish of all shapes, sizes, and colors that you can imagine AND huge building sized towers of coral and you will be close to seeing what I have seen.

18) Some of the kids here have hilarious names, which, while having strange meanings, do sound very nice as names. Mandy has a student named Nimrod and I have a student named Agency and one named Cloreen. Think about it.

Until next time,

Bar Lo Kom,

Andrew

Sunday, August 22, 2010

First Week of School, Deep Sea Fishing, and Feeding a Whole Village (Seriously)



This past week has been pretty crazy--full of fun new adventures and revolutionary experiences. School started this past monday and it was mayhem! My schedule had been changed around 5 times before it finally settled on Wednesday, so I went into the beginning of the week not really knowing what was going on. On Monday, the school had orientation. The day was organized by the principal--a wonderful man named Len Lenja who is very passionate about the success of his students--so none of the teachers really knew what was going on. The day started with all of the students coming in uniform, gathering in the gym (which in actuality is a concrete structure with open sides), and listening to Principal Lenja and other administrators talk about old rules new things happening at the school this year. All of the talking was done in Marshallese (and went on for about two or so hours) so I did not know what was going on, but I was sure to raise my hand when I heard my name so that the students could know who I was. They gave me a round of applause and that was my first welcome to Majuro Middle School. Unbeknownst to me I was given a homeroom that day and we were expected to establish homeroom etiquette and rules over another two hour period. Since I didn't expect to have a homeroom and was told not to prepare anything for the first day, I was at a complete loss when I had 30 Marshallese students staring at me. I managed to find a list of rules from last year posted on the wall and fumbled through the rules (since the students were not interested in helping me create them...or talking at all) and then attempted to play a game with them, which they also were not interested in. We were informed during our orientation with the DVTP that Marshallese youth are extremely shy and are reluctant to participate in class in general and I was seeing this first hand. Eventually I was relieved of my classroom and the orientation was cut short so that the teachers could retool the schedule.

The next day was more of the same. I had a different set of students, more courses to teach than I had originally (including Pacific Island Social Studies, which I knew NOTHING about), and even less of an idea of what was going on through the course of the day. Thankfully the other teachers were very helpful and commiserated with me since they were not sure what was going on throughout the course of the day either. Tuesday was also a half day so that the teachers could finally solidify the schedule. Finally Wednesday, with a solid schedule of two sections of reading and two sections of writing and grammar (so two classes to whom I taught two courses each) I was finally able to get into the swing of things. I started my grammar and writing curriculum on the parts of speech and my reading class on parts of a story arc. I also initiated a classroom management technique that came to me through Harry Potter. I split my classes into four teams -- red, green, blue, and yellow -- and told them that they would get points for various things like participation, having someone on the team get the highest score on a test of quiz, or having the whole class have perfect homework and.or perfect attendance for the week. The prize at the end of the month for the team with the most points would be a movie party complete with candy and popcorn. The prize for the team with the most points at the end of the quarter would be a pizza party. This definitely inspired my students to become involved in class. Many of them have a good grasp on basic English language and I find myself only having to explain longer words like participation, pediatrician, and enunciation. I have also taught my students to quiet down when they hear me clap out a rhythm. They copy the rhythms and turn their attention towards me. They do it so well and are so musically inclined that for fun I added in knee slaps, snaps, and stomps to make the rhythms more complicated. They LOVE it. I also have started using songs to teach them parts of speech. I would put lyrics to a Disney song or something like "Waving Flag" by K'naan and have them compete to identify the correct number of nouns, verbs, adverbs, and adjectives. The week ended with my students asking me to sing for them (I sang the American National Anthem and A Whole New World from Aladdin), me playing volleyball with the students and teaching them hacky-sac during recess, and showing them the wonders of Photo Booth on my Macbook.

The teachers at my school are wonderful and have been very helpful and welcoming to me. We talk a lot about the differences in our cultures and try to teach each other our languages. The other volunteer teacher at the school is from Japan and is named Ryo. He teaches math and we frequently bond over my affinity for all things Japanese and our confusion about the Marshallese language and culture. The school itself is very nice as well. The classrooms are not air conditioned (the teachers' lounge is and I think everytime I walk into it I say, "It feels like a dream" -- who knew you could build up such a sweat teaching?) but because the school is right on the ocean there is always a wonderful breeze. For lunch, government certified venders bring food cooked at their homes to the school campus for the students. For a dollar you get deliciously roasted chicken, rice, and a slice of a hot dog. Phenomenal eating. This next week I plan on continuing with my lessons but also focusing on teaching the kids organization. Many of the students have no idea how to take notes in orderly fashion; basic things like putting the date or a heading or writing in the name notebook for the same class. I hope this will help them for the rest of their academic lives.

My first week of teaching was a lot the deep sea fishing experience I had this weekend. It started out rough and choppy (like the ocean once we got out of the lagoon of the atoll), students started getting interested (like the first impressive catches we had), there was a bit of a lull in the middle of the week (then there was about and hour and a half to two hours where nothing was biting), and then more success at the end (where we had a few more catches). I had never been deep sea fishing before (in fact I had only been fishing twice before that I can remember -- once when I was very young with my cousin Nuffy and the other time at this camp I worked at for the past few summers in a pond in one of the park districts in Chicago = not the same experience) and the experience was all thanks to Justin's parents, Steve and Angela Curtis, who came to visit Justin this past week. They chartered the XXXX boat, which is one of the nicest boats in Majuro available for charter and we went out trolling around Arno, the atoll that is closest to Majuro. The process of trolling includes letting out a number of lines and then driving the boat around until the fish jump onto the lure which looks as if it is moving. Leaving the lagoon was a bit rough since I had just eaten and I could really feel the waves moving the food in my stomach, but once we got around Arno, the water became smooth. Within about 40 minutes of leaving Majuro we got a bite. About 800 yards of line dumped out (I learned all of these terms on the trip) and it took Justin about 20 minutes to reel in the fish. It was a 400 lb. blue marlin. Absolutely insane. The fish was gorgeous and our Marshallese captain and crew were extremely impressed. The next catch was mine. I caught a 25 lb. Wahoo, which is silver in color. Mr. Curtis then caught a 25 lb. barracuda. Finally, after a bit of a lull, Alex Huestis caught a 35 lb. Wahoo. It was a wild trip and while we were trolling we were able to see multiple dolphins jumping out of the water.

What was even more rewarding was what happened afterwards. We brought all of the fish back afterwards and after taking numerous pictures and hearing many "oohs" and "ahhs" about the impressive American fisherman that Justin was, the owners of a restaurant right next to the dock took Alex and my fish and used it to create a special for the dinner menu. The wahoo was cooked perfectly and was one of the most delicious fish I had ever eaten. Before the meal though Alex, Justin, and I took the fish to Ejit, the island that Justin and Alex teach on, and passed out all of the marlin to the people there. At first the residents were confused when we pulled up with a huge fish and offered it to them, but word spread quickly on the small island and soon children were running up with anything they could find to carry the ~8 lb slabs of fish meat, including bowls, garbage bags, and their hands! Everyone was extremely grateful to Justin for his generosity. At one point, one of the men helping Justin cut the fish said "You could sell this for a lot of money. Are you sure you want to give it away?" and Justin said, "Of course I do." While I did not catch or cut the fish I felt proud to help and be a part of feeding the entire 300 person community with enough food that they would not have to worry for the next few days. Justin's mother reminded us that these were the experiences that we would not forget and that this should show us how a little gesture can be invaluable to someone else. It was one of the more amazing things I have been a part of and I am happy to say that I was there to see it.

Anyway, I should be off to bed. After an amazing weekend and a wonderful Sunday snorkeling on Enamanit (where I saw some of the most beautiful fish I have ever seen in coral that was eight or so feet from the shore) I am exhausted. My first full week of teaching ahead of me!

But before I go, a few more to add to the list of surprises that the RMI offers everyday:

#10 Geckos CLUCK! Yes, you read correctly. The entire time that the DVTP group was in a trailer together during orientation we would hear these noises that we assumed were rats. I later found out that the noise was actually geckos. I can't really describe the noise so I suggest you find an audio clip somewhere...but I can promise you that it is nothing like you thought they would sound. That being said, the only noise I have ever thought a gecko made had to go with car insurance...

#11 The kids here are amazing at volleyball. While I do not have much experience playing volleyball with elementary students in America, these little kids are strong and accurate when it comes to hitting the ball. I played with some of my students during lunch on Friday and their slams were knocking me back off my feet!

#12 Rat tails (the hairstyle) are totally in. Many of the young guys here have them and rock them liberally. This continues to surprise and confuse me everyday.

Bar Lo Kom,

Andrew

(And be sure to check out my Picasa account that I just created. Click on the pictures in the scrolling thumbnails or follow the link here - http://picasaweb.google.com/117345389807646883401/Orientation?feat=directlink - It takes a while to upload pictures so I have just added pictures from the first part of orientation, but you can some shots of Enamanit and the other volunteers. I will add more pictures and comments so that you know what things are in the next few days.)