Due to MORE computer problems as a result of the RMI salt and humid climate, I will not be updating until right before I leave the Marshall Islands on June 3rd. That will be my final post in this country. Thanks so much for your support!
Quick update: School is ending this week and things are winding down quickly. This past Friday, my students had an all day show where they presented the books they wrote, illustrated, and bound. Ribelles from outside of the school and many of the teachers and students at MMS came to support. I was extremely proud of them. This week we will be filming the Peter Pan play we have been working on all term. The filming will culminate with a massive water balloon fight, which, besides being an opportunity for my students to pelt me and vice versa, will represent the battle between the pirates and the Lost Boys. Suffice to say, I am very excited for it. This past weekend, I finally spent a night in Laura, the other, more untouched and suburban part of the Majuro island with some of the WorldTeachers who are stationed out there. While out there I finally got up the courage to go past the breakers and see the coral drop off that makes this island a coral atoll. It was a terrifying experience because the waves were high, but rewarding to finally see. The Laura experience was also nice because I finally got to stay with a host family and live like the Marshallese do.
Until the final update,
Bar Lo Kom,
Andrew
Monday, May 23, 2011
Monday, May 9, 2011
"Tell Them" by Kathy Jetnil
With less than a month to go (25 days to be exact) I have extremely mixed feelings about leaving the Marshall Islands. If you asked me a few weeks ago how I would feel about leaving, I would have said "Ecstatic! Super! Incredible! SOOO ready!" But, the closer the day comes, and the more I think about it, the more I realize I will miss this place. This little floating island in the middle of the Pacific has many magical elements to it--things that will never be emulated in any other part of the world. Instead of getting into the nitty gritty of my internal turmoil (sounds dramatic right?), I wanted to present to you readers the best and most powerful description of the islands that I have heard to date. While in the islands, I have had the fortune of meeting a Marshallese girl by the name of Kathy Jetnil at the Thursday night gatherings. She works in communications at the College of the Marshall Islands and, to steal a bit from her blog, is a "poet, writer, and spoken word artist" on top of being an absolutely wonderful and fun person to be around. She studied writing at Mills College in California with a BA in Creative Writing. Her writing background is prolific. Among other achievements, she just found out that she was accepted into VONA Writer's Workshop at UC Berkley! I went to a poetry reading at CMI this past week and had the fortune to be moved by her reading of this poem of hers. So, I leave you with "Tell Them" by Kathy Jetnil, a poem thats says more than I ever could about this place.
"Tell Them"
I prepared the package
for my friends in the states
the dangling earrings woven
into half moons black pearls glinting
like an eye in a storm of tight spirals
the baskets
sturdy, also woven
brown cowry shells shiny
intricate mandalas
shaped by calloused fingers
Inside the basket
a message:
Wear these earrings
to parties
to your classes and meetings
to the grocery store, the corner store
and while riding the bus
Store jewelry, incense, copper coins
and curling letters like this one
in this basket
and when others ask you
where you got this
you tell them
they’re from the Marshall Islands
show them where it is on a map
tell them we are a proud people
toasted dark brown as the carved ribs
of a tree stump
tell them we are descendents
of the finest navigators in the world
tell them our islands were dropped
from a basket
carried by a giant
tell them we are the hollow hulls
of canoes as fast as the wind
slicing through the pacific sea
we are wood shavings
and drying pandanus leaves
and sticky bwiros at kemems
tell them we are sweet harmonies
of grandmothers mothers aunties and sisters
songs late into night
tell them we are whispered prayers
the breath of God
a crown of fushia flowers encircling
aunty mary’s white sea foam hair
tell them we are styrofoam cups of koolaid red
waiting patiently for the ilomij
tell them we are papaya golden sunsets bleeding
into a glittering open sea
we are skies uncluttered
majestic in their sweeping landscape
we are the ocean
terrifying and regal in its power
tell them we are dusty rubber slippers
swiped
from concrete doorsteps
we are the ripped seams
and the broken door handles of taxis
we are sweaty hands shaking another sweaty hand in heat
tell them
we are days
and nights hotter
than anything you can imagine
tell them we are little girls with braids
cartwheeling beneath the rain
we are shards of broken beer bottles
burrowed beneath fine white sand
we are children flinging
like rubber bands
across a road clogged with chugging cars
tell them
we only have one road
and after all this
tell them about the water
how we have seen it rising
flooding across our cemeteries
gushing over the sea walls
and crashing against our homes
tell them what it’s like
to see the entire ocean__level___with the land
tell them
we are afraid
tell them we don’t know
of the politics
or the science
but tell them we see
what is in our own backyard
tell them that some of us
are old fishermen who believe that God
made us a promise
some of us
are more skeptical of God
but most importantly tell them
we don’t want to leave
we’ve never wanted to leave
and that we
are nothing without our islands.
-----------------------------
For more of Kathy's work, check out her blog at http://jkijiner.wordpress.com/
Until next time (only 3 more blogs in the RMI, then onto Bosnia! Stay tuned!)
Bar Lo Kom,
Andrew
"Tell Them"
I prepared the package
for my friends in the states
the dangling earrings woven
into half moons black pearls glinting
like an eye in a storm of tight spirals
the baskets
sturdy, also woven
brown cowry shells shiny
intricate mandalas
shaped by calloused fingers
Inside the basket
a message:
Wear these earrings
to parties
to your classes and meetings
to the grocery store, the corner store
and while riding the bus
Store jewelry, incense, copper coins
and curling letters like this one
in this basket
and when others ask you
where you got this
you tell them
they’re from the Marshall Islands
show them where it is on a map
tell them we are a proud people
toasted dark brown as the carved ribs
of a tree stump
tell them we are descendents
of the finest navigators in the world
tell them our islands were dropped
from a basket
carried by a giant
tell them we are the hollow hulls
of canoes as fast as the wind
slicing through the pacific sea
we are wood shavings
and drying pandanus leaves
and sticky bwiros at kemems
tell them we are sweet harmonies
of grandmothers mothers aunties and sisters
songs late into night
tell them we are whispered prayers
the breath of God
a crown of fushia flowers encircling
aunty mary’s white sea foam hair
tell them we are styrofoam cups of koolaid red
waiting patiently for the ilomij
tell them we are papaya golden sunsets bleeding
into a glittering open sea
we are skies uncluttered
majestic in their sweeping landscape
we are the ocean
terrifying and regal in its power
tell them we are dusty rubber slippers
swiped
from concrete doorsteps
we are the ripped seams
and the broken door handles of taxis
we are sweaty hands shaking another sweaty hand in heat
tell them
we are days
and nights hotter
than anything you can imagine
tell them we are little girls with braids
cartwheeling beneath the rain
we are shards of broken beer bottles
burrowed beneath fine white sand
we are children flinging
like rubber bands
across a road clogged with chugging cars
tell them
we only have one road
and after all this
tell them about the water
how we have seen it rising
flooding across our cemeteries
gushing over the sea walls
and crashing against our homes
tell them what it’s like
to see the entire ocean__level___with the land
tell them
we are afraid
tell them we don’t know
of the politics
or the science
but tell them we see
what is in our own backyard
tell them that some of us
are old fishermen who believe that God
made us a promise
some of us
are more skeptical of God
but most importantly tell them
we don’t want to leave
we’ve never wanted to leave
and that we
are nothing without our islands.
-----------------------------
For more of Kathy's work, check out her blog at http://jkijiner.wordpress.com/
Until next time (only 3 more blogs in the RMI, then onto Bosnia! Stay tuned!)
Bar Lo Kom,
Andrew
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
No Cuts, No Butts, But PLENTY of Coconuts!
And now, for a long overdue treatise on undoubtedly the coolest nut on Earth: the coconut. Get this coconuts, or ni, as they are called in Marshallese, not only produce numerous types of foods for the Marshallese people, which are always present at events, put can be used as a source of income as well. The real kicker is that as a result of natural selection, coconut trees have notches on them that basically ask you to climb up the tree to get to the nut! If you needed proof of a higher power, look no further! It's funny to me how coconuts have been exoticized in the states. While we frequently see shaved coconut in our grocery stores, there is a lot more to the nut than meets the eye in those plastic bags.
One of the first things to note about the coconut is its incredible growth. An average coconut tree grows 50 to 90 coconuts a year. It makes it a perfect resource for a country of people who survived for years on subsistent living. A fact that I didn't know before coming here is that if you stop a coconut at any time in its growth, you will get a different edible product. The Marshallese have a myriad of names for the coconut in its various forms. I have done my best to accrue the major phases/names for you in my brief description of the wondrous coconut.
When the coconut is near ripe or fully ripe, it will either naturally fall out of the tree or will be picked by an expert climber/rock thrower (I have still yet to figure out how they can tell that the coconut is ripe when it is far away from keen eyesight and can also not be ripe and have a brown outer shell--it think it is some kind of 6th island sense). At this point in time, the shell of the coconut is just generating, turning from green to its hard brown exterior. Inside, the coconut contains mede. This is when the white fleshy material is soft, slightly gooey, and is at the height of its deliciousness. The coconut water, called ni, is also at its most delicious. For those of you who do not know, the coconut milk is actually coconut water that has acquired some of the sweetness of the coconut itself. Coconut milk is created from the coconut meat of the plant (coconut water occurs naturally; coconut milk is made). One truth I can tell you about the coconut is that there is always way more coconut water in it than you assume. You can drink you fill and there will still be tons more inside. Good to note if you are planning on opening it and drinking it!
After passing the point of being freshly ripe, the coconut contains waini. This is the phase when the coconut meat (the white fleshy material inside of the shell) has hardened. This stuff is what makes it into our shaving bags in the U.S. of A. While it is edible, it is not as tasty as when the nut is ripe. This is also the case with the ni inside.
After hitting the ground and passing through the waini phase, the coconut starts to germinate. If you are lucky enough to catch the coconut right when it begins to grow, you will be treated to my favorite thing that I have ingested while in the RMI--iu (pronounced "you"). It is a spongy, sweet, moist, flaky yellowish/white substance that fills the interior of the coconut right as it starts to grow. It can be eaten straight out of the coconut or it can be cooked on top of hot rocks and under palm leaves. I have not had the latter (to my knowledge; who knows what you are given at Marshallese events when food is practically thrown at you in generous heaps) but the former is incredible.
All of these forms of the coconut can be cooked in different ways. I was able to get a list of the few with which I was most familiar with with the help of the vice principal at my school:
1) Rice Balls--Just as it sounds, these are combination of large balls of rice and shaved coconut. Sounds simple? Well it is. And its delicious and filling!
2) Coconuts Mixed with Pandanas--The VP could not remember the specific name for the treat, but as for the consistency, this treat is very gooey. It usually comes in sugar sprinkled ball form.
3) Ni and Fish--Ni is an ingredient frequently used as a bath for fish. Since many fish are eaten raw here, the ni-soak adds and extra sweet flavor. When cooked, the meat is even more tender and delectable.
4) Lukor (pronounced "Lick-core," like "Liquor" but with a "k")-- This is the form that I have the most exposure to, though I have never tried it myself. Everyday, one of the teachers sells this frozen substance to a plethora of students. It is yew mixed with water or milk and sugar and then frozen. The kids LOVE it and I usually have to tell them to throw it away so I can start class (nearly) on time.
As I mentioned a few times before, one of the most important facets of coconuts in the Marshall Islands is its ability to be used as a cash crop Since I am not on an outer island, the knowledge of the process of making copra is not as well known to me as it is to other volunteers who see family members or island friends toiling everyday to make the product, but the basic process is something like this:
1. Coconuts are collected in their ripe/post-ripe/pre-germination, "brown shell" phase.
2. The are laid out and sun-dried for a few days. This process can be helped through mass smoking of the coconuts.
3. The contents of the sun-dried coconut are easily removed and the shells are beaten down and packed in sacks which are sent off to the copra factor called Tobler (pronounced "toe-bo-lair").
4. There, a process of oil extraction is used to remove the majority of the substance of the dried nut. This oil can be used as a cooking oil, or in products such as soap and cosmetics. The rest is a dense dietary fiber that can be used to feed some livestock. It can also be used as fuel.
The process of opening a coconut is one of the first "native" things that the volunteers learned here. On our first excursion to Enemanit, we were taught by some Marshallese people there to find a coconut that was read and strip it of its leafy coverings by using a stake in the ground, jamming the stringy outer, leafy layers, and twisting. To open the coconut to drink, the process is very similar to opening a CapriSun. There are two or three holes at the top of the coconut. They are areas that are not as thick. I am not sure as to their biological purpose, but a key or a small finger can find these holes and poke through them quickly. But, as with a CapriSun, one must always be careful of being squirted! The pressure inside is high (someone once informed me that during WWII, coconuts were used for blood transfusions since their insides were one of the only sterile things that could be readily found around the Pacific. I have yet to find proof this (though it is hinted at on Wikipedia) but it sounds possible)! After this, a few strategic and steady cracks around the shell and the coconut is open and ready to eat.
Finally, and most important to me personally, is the use of coconut leaves to create handicrafts. There are tons of different types of handicrafts in the country from baskets, floor mats, hats, fans, hair flowers, and Christmas tree ornaments that are all made from coconuts. I definitely plan on bringing a bunch back for my family and friends.
Well, there is my much deserved but wholly inadequate talk on coconuts. Do some research yourself and I promise that you too will be amazed!
30 Days to Go!
Bar Lo Kom,
Andrew
One of the first things to note about the coconut is its incredible growth. An average coconut tree grows 50 to 90 coconuts a year. It makes it a perfect resource for a country of people who survived for years on subsistent living. A fact that I didn't know before coming here is that if you stop a coconut at any time in its growth, you will get a different edible product. The Marshallese have a myriad of names for the coconut in its various forms. I have done my best to accrue the major phases/names for you in my brief description of the wondrous coconut.
When the coconut is near ripe or fully ripe, it will either naturally fall out of the tree or will be picked by an expert climber/rock thrower (I have still yet to figure out how they can tell that the coconut is ripe when it is far away from keen eyesight and can also not be ripe and have a brown outer shell--it think it is some kind of 6th island sense). At this point in time, the shell of the coconut is just generating, turning from green to its hard brown exterior. Inside, the coconut contains mede. This is when the white fleshy material is soft, slightly gooey, and is at the height of its deliciousness. The coconut water, called ni, is also at its most delicious. For those of you who do not know, the coconut milk is actually coconut water that has acquired some of the sweetness of the coconut itself. Coconut milk is created from the coconut meat of the plant (coconut water occurs naturally; coconut milk is made). One truth I can tell you about the coconut is that there is always way more coconut water in it than you assume. You can drink you fill and there will still be tons more inside. Good to note if you are planning on opening it and drinking it!
After passing the point of being freshly ripe, the coconut contains waini. This is the phase when the coconut meat (the white fleshy material inside of the shell) has hardened. This stuff is what makes it into our shaving bags in the U.S. of A. While it is edible, it is not as tasty as when the nut is ripe. This is also the case with the ni inside.
After hitting the ground and passing through the waini phase, the coconut starts to germinate. If you are lucky enough to catch the coconut right when it begins to grow, you will be treated to my favorite thing that I have ingested while in the RMI--iu (pronounced "you"). It is a spongy, sweet, moist, flaky yellowish/white substance that fills the interior of the coconut right as it starts to grow. It can be eaten straight out of the coconut or it can be cooked on top of hot rocks and under palm leaves. I have not had the latter (to my knowledge; who knows what you are given at Marshallese events when food is practically thrown at you in generous heaps) but the former is incredible.
All of these forms of the coconut can be cooked in different ways. I was able to get a list of the few with which I was most familiar with with the help of the vice principal at my school:
1) Rice Balls--Just as it sounds, these are combination of large balls of rice and shaved coconut. Sounds simple? Well it is. And its delicious and filling!
2) Coconuts Mixed with Pandanas--The VP could not remember the specific name for the treat, but as for the consistency, this treat is very gooey. It usually comes in sugar sprinkled ball form.
3) Ni and Fish--Ni is an ingredient frequently used as a bath for fish. Since many fish are eaten raw here, the ni-soak adds and extra sweet flavor. When cooked, the meat is even more tender and delectable.
4) Lukor (pronounced "Lick-core," like "Liquor" but with a "k")-- This is the form that I have the most exposure to, though I have never tried it myself. Everyday, one of the teachers sells this frozen substance to a plethora of students. It is yew mixed with water or milk and sugar and then frozen. The kids LOVE it and I usually have to tell them to throw it away so I can start class (nearly) on time.
As I mentioned a few times before, one of the most important facets of coconuts in the Marshall Islands is its ability to be used as a cash crop Since I am not on an outer island, the knowledge of the process of making copra is not as well known to me as it is to other volunteers who see family members or island friends toiling everyday to make the product, but the basic process is something like this:
1. Coconuts are collected in their ripe/post-ripe/pre-germination, "brown shell" phase.
2. The are laid out and sun-dried for a few days. This process can be helped through mass smoking of the coconuts.
3. The contents of the sun-dried coconut are easily removed and the shells are beaten down and packed in sacks which are sent off to the copra factor called Tobler (pronounced "toe-bo-lair").
4. There, a process of oil extraction is used to remove the majority of the substance of the dried nut. This oil can be used as a cooking oil, or in products such as soap and cosmetics. The rest is a dense dietary fiber that can be used to feed some livestock. It can also be used as fuel.
The process of opening a coconut is one of the first "native" things that the volunteers learned here. On our first excursion to Enemanit, we were taught by some Marshallese people there to find a coconut that was read and strip it of its leafy coverings by using a stake in the ground, jamming the stringy outer, leafy layers, and twisting. To open the coconut to drink, the process is very similar to opening a CapriSun. There are two or three holes at the top of the coconut. They are areas that are not as thick. I am not sure as to their biological purpose, but a key or a small finger can find these holes and poke through them quickly. But, as with a CapriSun, one must always be careful of being squirted! The pressure inside is high (someone once informed me that during WWII, coconuts were used for blood transfusions since their insides were one of the only sterile things that could be readily found around the Pacific. I have yet to find proof this (though it is hinted at on Wikipedia) but it sounds possible)! After this, a few strategic and steady cracks around the shell and the coconut is open and ready to eat.
Finally, and most important to me personally, is the use of coconut leaves to create handicrafts. There are tons of different types of handicrafts in the country from baskets, floor mats, hats, fans, hair flowers, and Christmas tree ornaments that are all made from coconuts. I definitely plan on bringing a bunch back for my family and friends.
Well, there is my much deserved but wholly inadequate talk on coconuts. Do some research yourself and I promise that you too will be amazed!
30 Days to Go!
Bar Lo Kom,
Andrew
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